A gastronomic journey through the Aosta Valley: from wine to Fontina d'alpeggio cheese

The landscape one encounters in Valle d'Aosta, coming from Piedmont, introduces one to the mountains. It is not difficult to imagine, on the side of the slopes running along the main road, and gradually approaching, as you climb in altitude, the pastures where Fontina d'alpeggio DOP is produced, cared for and protected.

The mountain, drawn by the vines, on the sunny side of the valley, are but a prelude to the set of tastes and of flavours characteristic of this land. Cured meats, such as Arnad lard, or with a traditional flavour such as Motzetta. Lots of cheese, of course, but not only.

Fontina DOP d'alpeggio (mountain pasture cheese) remains the queen of the table, but the pairings, starting with the wines, make the tables of the Aosta Valley a’gastronomic experience

The wine: reds and whites on the sunny slopes of the valley

The mountains of the Aosta Valley are dotted with sunny slopes and ridges, where the grapes are warmed from early morning until sunset. The food and wine journey in Valle d'Aosta can only start from here and from the history of its wines, which is also based, like that of the Fontina AOC d'alpeggio, on traces of ancient eras. The wines of the region retain the same spirit as its inhabitants: leathery and the fruit of cultivation on rugged terrain just below imposing mountains.

Since 1900, wine in Valle d'Aosta has rediscovered its ancient tradition and in modern times has been refined around the birth of wineries that today present a’wide selection of DOC wines, spread throughout Italy and internationally. Among the reds you can find Arnad-Montjovet, Donnas, Gamay, Merlot, Nebbiolo, Pinot Noir and the ancient grape variety of Syrah. There is no shortage of whites Chardonnay but also Müller Thurgau, Petite Arvine, Pinot Grigio and Prié Blanc. Also very special, low acid and with interesting tones is the Rosé based Nebbiolo. Less well known, then, but definitely sought after, are the Chardonnay Vendemmia Tardiva and  Pinot Grigio Vendemmia Tardiva. Also from Nebbiolo, the fragrances of the grappas of the Aosta Valley. 

From Arnad lard to Motzetta: traditional cured meats

Before even touching the highest peaks, on the valley floor which leads from the Canavese area to Aosta, the palate is confronted with the king of Valle d'Aosta cold cuts, Lardo d'Arnad DOP, a product with protected designation of origin, which is obtained by processing only the shoulder of pigs weighing more than two quintals. A unicum that not only concerns the starting point, since once obtained, the pieces of lard are left to mature in the “doils”ancient vessels made of chestnut or oak wood. Here the layers of lard, overlapping until the fill is saturated, alternate with a mixture consisting of salt, water, spices, natural flavourings and mountain herbs. After no less than three months of maturing, during which time the lard obtains the fragrance and organoleptic characteristics that distinguish it so uniquely from melt in the mouth on the table, perfect with rye bread croutons softened with honey.

However, Arnad lard is not the only king of Valle d'Aosta tables. Local charcuteries produce several traditional cold cuts including the Motzetta, a special, tasty and aromatic dried meat, which can be made from beef or chamois. finally, for gourmets, there are the Boudins, sausages made from potatoes and beetroot and pig's blood.

Alpine Fontina is the queen of a court of flavours

La Fontina PDO, spread throughout the Aosta Valley, Italy and the world, and in particular the Fontina PDO produced in alpine pastures, is not missing from the tables of gourmets. Many local farms produce it as part of the Consorzio Produttori e Tutela della DOP Fontina. 

However, along with this incredible cheese, which adapts to all seasons, there are other gastronomically interesting products that are not to be missed on a trip to the valley to discover taste. 

Among them, some fresh cow's milk cheeses including the Reblec or matured such as tome. Typical of the Aosta Valley is then the Salignön cottage cheese, creamy and fatty, with a spicy flavour, mixed with salt, pepper and chilli.

Among the products to try and discover are the Micooula, which is a sweet bread typical of the municipality of Hône made from wholemeal wheat and rye flour, chestnuts, sultanas, dried figs, butter, eggs, salt and sugar. Also worth mentioning is thein Piata di Issogne, P.A.T, a sweet focaccia made with rye flour, butter, sultanas and nuts and decorated with apples and sugar icing. 

Although partly influenced and deriving from the contamination of the Piedmontese culinary tradition, it is not uncommon in Valle d'Aosta, when in the mood for something other than bread, to find the miasse; a kind of piadina made of water, maize flour, eggs and oil, cooked on special griddles